Overview

The Nikon 1 V1 and J1 cameras, along with 1 Nikkor lenses were kindly provided by B&H – the largest photo reseller in the world that I personally use to buy my photography gear.
1) Nikon 1 V1 Specifications
Main Features:
- 10.1 Megapixel CX-format (2.7x crop factor) CMOS Image Sensor
- 13.2mm x 8.8mm sensor size
- Nikon 1 Lens Mount
- Compatible with SD, SDHC and SDXC cards
- 3:2 aspect ratio for still images
- 12-bit compressed RAW image support
- Full 1080p HD Cinematic Video at 1080/60i, 1080/30p, 720/60p video resolutions (16:9 aspect ratio)
- Slow-motion Video at 400fps / 640×240 resolution and 1200fps / 320×120 resolution
- Hybrid phase detection / contrast-detect Autofocus with up to 135 focus points and an AF-assist illuminator
- Subject and face tracking
- ISO sensitivity 100-3200, expandable to ISO 6400 equivalent
- 3-in. LCD monitor with with 921,000 dots
- Built-in HDMI, USB and audio ports/inputs
- 5 Automatic Exposure Scene Modes – Portrait, Landscape, Night Portrait, Close-up and Auto
- 5 Shooting Modes – Still Image, Smart Photo Selector, Movie, Movie Slow Motion and Motion Snapshot
- 6 Exposure Modes – Programed Auto (P), Shutter Priority (S), Aperture Priority (A), Manual (M) and Scene Auto Selector
- Standard, Neutral, Vivid, Monochrome, Portrait and Landscape Picture Controls
- Accessory hot shoe for Nikon 1 accessories such as GPS, Flash, Microphone, etc
- Compact and Lightweight Design
- Features Nikon’s new EXPEED 3 image processing engine
- Active D-Lighting for shadow highlight recovery
- Dust-reduction system with Image Sensor Cleaning
- Electronic color LCD viewfinder with 100% viewfinder frame coverage
- Electronic lens aperture control
- Two shutter types – Electronically-controlled vertical-travel focal plane mechanical shutter and electronic shutter
- Mechanical shutter up to 1/4,000 sec, electronic shutter up to 1/16,000 sec; up to 30 seconds slow shutter for both
- Flash Sync Speed 1/60 (electronic shutter) and 1/250 (mechanical shutter)
- Built-in intervalometer
- Up to 5 fps in standard mode, up to 10, 30 or 60 fps in electronic [Hi] mode
- Spot, Center-weighted and Matrix metering modes
- Focus Modes – Auto (AF), Auto AF-S/AF-C selection (AF-A), Single-servo AF (AF-S), Continuous-servo (AF-C), Full-time Servo (AF-F), Manual Focus (MF)
- An FT1 adapter (must be purchased separately) allows using certain legacy F Mount Nikkor DSLR lenses on the camera
- Battery Life up to 350 shots per charge
- Dimensions 4.4″ x 3.0″ x 1.7″ / 113mm x 76mm x 43.5mm
- Weight: 10.4oz (294g)
Detailed technical specifications for the Nikon 1 V1 are available on Nikonusa.com.
2) Why Mirrorless Nikon?
Why did Nikon decide to enter the interchangeable mirrorless market (also known as “EVIL”- Electronic Viewfinder, Interchangeable Lens), despite the fact that it has a strong presence in both point and shoot and DSLR markets? Because it makes a lot of financial sense for Nikon. Mirrorless falls right in between point and shoot and DSLR in terms of features, size and weight, so it is a nice compromise. Without the need for a reflex mirror, a pentaprism and other heavy and bulky DLSR components, mirrorless cameras can be much lighter and smaller in size. With the ability to use different types of lenses, mirrorless cameras no longer have the disadvantage of point and shoot cameras and open up great opportunities for creative photography – something only the SLR market has been enjoying for many years.
Pioneered by Panasonic in 2008, mirrorless cameras have been in huge demand with a tremendous year after year growth. It makes a lot of sense, because point and shoot cameras have too many limitations and problems, while DSLRs are just too bulky and heavy for everyday use. A mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses enjoys a sweet spot here. The point and shoot camera market is over-saturated with too many options and with the integration of relatively good compact cameras on mobile devices, the demand for point and shoot cameras will continue to drop. This presents even more growth opportunities for the mirrorless market. A number of manufacturers like Olympus, Pentax, Fuji, Sony and Samsung saw a great opportunity in expanding their markets and introduced a number of mirrorless cameras, while both Canon and Nikon have been quiet, despite statistics and articles like this pouring in from all directions.
It turns out Nikon had been developing its own mirrorless camera since 2006 and spent a considerable amount of R&D time and money to create its own version of a mirrorless “EVIL” camera. That’s how the Nikon 1 camera system, along with 1 NIKKOR lenses came into existence this year, with two new mirrorless cameras – Nikon 1 J1 and Nikon 1 V1, and four 1 NIKKOR lenses – 1 NIKKOR 10mm f/2.8, 1 NIKKOR VR 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6, 1 NIKKOR VR 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6 and 1 NIKKOR VR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 PD-ZOOM.
3) Nikon 1 CX Sensor
When Nikon officially announced the Nikon 1 system, the majority of the Nikon community, including me, was disappointed. With Sony and Samsung using a large 1.5x crop factor APS-C sensor on their new cameras and rumors of a potential full-frame mirrorless camera coming out soon, we were all surprised to see a much smaller sensor on the Nikon 1 system with a 2.7x crop factor. Even Micro Four Thirds and Sigma’s Foveon sensors are larger in comparison. Many pros and photo enthusiasts had been wanting a compact camera with DSLR image quality for a long time now. Based on the published specs alone, lots of negative feedback started pouring in and Nikon had to defend its decision to use a smaller sensor a number of times so far.
Here is a comparison of image sensor sizes (courtesy of Wikipedia):

Did Nikon make a mistake with the Nikon 1 system because of its smaller sensor? The image sensor technology has been advancing to new levels, especially during the last couple of years. The new full-frame and APC-S sensors we have today perform significantly better even compared to previous generation sensors. It is mind-boggling that we can shoot ISO 102,400 on some cameras and ISO 1600, which was once the limit on film, is now “native” ISO on most compact digital cameras. It is clear, that the image sensor technology is getting better, while pixels are getting smaller. Nikon’s strategy with the Nikon 1 cameras follows this pattern. Nikon is putting a big bet on further image sensor technology advancements that will allow using more pixels in a tight area with very low noise levels. As we have seen with some cameras like the Nikon D7000, Nikon can add more pixels while retaining or even enhancing image quality over a previous generation camera. So I would not be surprised to see a higher resolution Nikon 1 camera in a year or two, with better ISO performance than we see on the Nikon 1 J1/V1 cameras today. Why didn’t Nikon go for a 2x crop factor sensor like the Micro Four Thirds? There are several reasons for this (among others). First, it is the cost. Lower cost is an important advantage of a smaller sensor – if it is cheaper to produce, Nikon can bundle more features with the camera, or sell it at a lower price than the competition. Second, Nikon knows that it can produce a smaller sensor and match or even surpass larger sensors from other manufacturers. Third, Nikon knows that sensor size is what we – photography geeks and gurus talk about. Everybody else does not rarely care about the sensor size – they will choose a camera that is slick, easy and intuitive to use and produces good pictures and videos – exactly the aim of the Nikon 1 line. Fourth, larger sensor does not always equate to better image quality and ISO performance. On top of all this, the new CX sensor does not jeopardize any of the DX camera sales. If Nikon released a mirrorless camera with a 1.5x crop factor sensor like Sony did with their NEX-5n and NEX-7 cameras, it could have potentially hurt its entry-level DX camera sales, which historically have been the strongest source of global sales for Nikon. Now if Nikon had released a 2x crop factor sensor similar to the Micro Four Thirds, the Nikon 1 cameras would have been phenomenal, especially considering all the noise reduction algorithms Nikon successfully developed over the years. But again, if the performance of a 2x sensor would have been close to DSLR performance, Nikon could have risked cannibalizing its entry-level DSLR sales. In addition, a larger sensor would have put more stress on optics, which would result in larger and more expensive lenses. Nikon took a different approach by balancing sensor size, lenses and camera features and decided that a smaller sensor is the way to go.
On the flip side, a smaller sensor means larger depth of field, which translates to less opportunities to isolate subjects from the background – an important factor for many photo enthusiasts and pros out there. Nikon will need fast f/1.4 or even f/1.0-f/1.2 glass to compensate for the depth of field loss. On the other hand, a smaller sensor is an advantage for an autofocus system, since it can hide potential autofocus problems. From Nikon’s marketing standpoint and product placement, CX line is advertised as fun, everyday cameras for home, travel and adventure, DX is a much more serious line for photo enthusiasts and seasonal pros, while FX is top of the line for pros.
What about megapixels? Nikon decided that 10 megapixels is enough for most people, which I do agree with. Adding more pixels to a small sensor like this would have resulted in a lot more noise and it would have been a disadvantage for the Nikon 1 cameras. We should not forget that squeezing more pixels per inch results in more noise and can be very demanding on lenses as well. For example, the recent Sony A77 / A65 and NEX-7 cameras have a record-setting 24 megapixels on a 1.5x APS-C sensor, which puts a big burden on lenses and results in high amounts of noise at the pixel level (down-sampled, the images look impressive). A good sensor should have a good balance of megapixels and ISO noise, which I believe the Nikon 1 sensor does.
Taking all of the above into account, Nikon had plenty of reasons to go with a smaller sensor. Whether this was a good or a bad move, we will find out in a few years – only the time will show. Enough said, let’s get back to the Nikon 1 V1 Review and talk about the camera, its features and how it fares against the competition.
4) Camera construction and handling
The Nikon 1 cameras are built to be incredibly small and lightweight. The Nikon 1 V1 is only 113x76x44mm in size – even the smallest Nikon D3100 DSLR is much bulkier and thicker than this camera, measuring 124x97x74mm. Weight-wise, the V1 mirrorless is only 294 grams, while the same D3100 DSLR weighs 455 grams. Here is a side by side comparison image between the two:

This is how the smallest Nikon DSLR fares against the V1. Any other Nikon DSLR, especially something like D300s or D700 looks and feels just massive in comparison. When compared to the mirrorless competition, however, the Nikon V1 is unfortunately both bigger and heavier. The Olympus E-PL3 and the Sony NEX-5n camera bodies are more compact and offer richer specs and less weight. The battery used by the V1 is the same one the Nikon D7000 DSLR has, which certainly helps with battery life, but adds significantly more to the weight of the camera.
When it comes to camera build and construction, the Nikon V1 is built very well. Unlike its plastic Olympus E-PL3 counterpart that has a somewhat similar look and feel, the Nikon 1 V1 has a magnesium alloy body (the Nikon 1 J1 is aluminum). The camera handles quite well and the right-handed grip is OK, although it is no match to the deeply recessed grip on the Sony NEX-5n. I wish Nikon did something similar, even if it meant a slightly larger camera. The NEX-5n handles a world better in comparison, just because of the comfortable grip.
One huge advantage of the V1 over its E-PL3 and NEX-5n competitors is the electronic viewfinder. While it is not as nice and crisp as the EVF on the Sony A77/A65 cameras that I am simultaneously testing, it is good enough for the V1. You can add an electronic viewfinder to E-PL3 and NEX-5n cameras, but at an extra cost and it eats up the accessory hot shoe, so you cannot simultaneously use it with a flash. The camera automatically switches from LCD to EVF when you get close to the viewfinder, with approximately a one second long lag, which is not bad.

As for the button placement and camera layout, Nikon has done a good job, although I do have a couple of complaints. Let’s start from the back of the camera. Most of the back buttons are where they should be and access to the important camera functions are provided with a very minimum number of extra and unnecessary buttons, which is good. Once I got used to the controls, operating the camera was super easy, even while wearing my winter gloves (had to wear those in sub-zero temperatures). The function (F) button on the top of the camera does not get used as much, so it does not bother me. The up/down switch right next to it is very clever – it is used for zooming in/out during playback, changing aperture/shutter speed in various modes and for manual focus. My main complaint is on the rotary camera mode selector switch that I keep accidentally switching while using the camera. I wish there was some sort of a lock on this selector or some other way to switch between different camera modes without the need for this switch. On multiple occasions I found myself in a wrong mode, which was annoying. As for the top of the camera, the on/off switch and the shutter release button are placed well, however, I do not understand the point of having a separate video record button. Once you make a choice to shoot video, the shutter button is what should be used to start recording, not a separate button. The button is also smaller than the shutter button, which makes it even harder to find while looking through the viewfinder. JPEG stills in video mode are captured at 16:9 aspect ratio in reduced HD JPEG size, so this dedicated button is useless in my opinion. Sure, some might find the ability to shoot an image while recording video useful, but those cases are rare. Certainly not worth the extra button, in my opinion. And if you happen to be in a still image mode, pressing this button defaults to 720p/60fps video and you cannot change this behavior either. A rather limited feature indeed.
The typical PASM exposure mode selector dial has also been eliminated from the camera, so you can only change the exposure mode from the camera menu. Other features such as white balance, ISO, image size/format also reside in the camera menu. A simplistic approach when compared to the Olympus E-PL3, but not a huge deal for me, since I do not often change the exposure mode when shooting. Newbies and those coming from the point and shoot world will rarely use it anyway.
What about the LCD? The good news is that the 3″ LCD is large and beautiful. The bad news is that it does not swivel like the NEX-5n and E-PL3 do and it is not touchscreen either. I can live without a touchscreen, but no swivel is a serious disadvantage for the V1, especially for macro and video shooting. It is understandable that the J1 LCD does not offer this due to cost, but the V1, being a higher-end camera should have had an LCD that swivels.
Lastly, my biggest complaint on the camera body is related to the accessory hot shoe that can be used with such devices as GPS, flash, microphone, etc. Speaking of flash, the V1 is considered to be a higher-end camera at least when compared to the J1, so it would have been nice if Nikon provided a standard hot shoe instead. Creative photography with off-camera flash is kind of out of question with the V1, unless you configure slave flashes to trigger in legacy SU-4 mode and for that you would need the Nikon 1 SB-N5 flash to be mounted on the camera anyway. While a full-size speedlight like SB-900 on the Nikon 1 V1 would have looked massive, something like the SB-400 would have been perfect for the Nikon 1. As for the black cover that goes over the accessory hot shoe when it is not in use, it does not tightly lock in place – I have already lost mine because of this. Another design flaw that should have been addressed. Although none of the current mirrorless cameras have a GPS unit, I wish Nikon had it integrated into the camera. A GPS unit is not shipped with the V1 and it will cost you another $150 on top of what the camera costs. It is rather bulky and kind of defeats the purpose of a compact camera. Nikon has been putting GPS into point and shoot cameras like Coolpix AW100, so why couldn’t they integrate it into the V1?
Despite the solid magnesium alloy build, Nikon recommends to use the V1 camera in 32 to 104°F (0 to 40°C) temperatures, with less than 85% humidity (no condensation). The camera is not weather sealed and has no dust protection like some of the advanced DSLR cameras. I would not worry about these recommendations too much though, since I have used the Nikon 1 V1 in temperatures way below the normal 32°F temperatures and it has been working great without any problems since then. I shot in light rain and moderate snow and the camera is still working fine.
5) 1 NIKKOR Lenses
While I will soon be publishing reviews on Nikon 1 system lenses, I decided to share my general thoughts on the lenses and provide some feedback on each lens individually. For all CX lens line-up, Nikon is using a “1 NIKKOR” name, so the 10mm f/2.8 pancake lens is officially called “1 NIKKOR 10mm f/2.8″. Here are the lenses that Nikon released together with Nikon 1 system:
- 1 NIKKOR 10mm f/2.8
- 1 NIKKOR VR 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6
- 1 NIKKOR VR 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6
- 1 NIKKOR VR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 PD-ZOOM
In general, the above 1 NIKKOR lenses have very good performance characteristics with great sharpness and colors, something I expected from Nikkor optics. The CX mount has been completely redesigned with more lens contacts, allowing lenses to exchange more data with the camera. For example, both the 1 NIKKOR 10-30mm and the 1 NIKKOR 30-110mm collapsible lenses automatically turn on the camera when the zoom ring is rotated to the zoom range position. The manual focus ring has been eliminated from all CX lenses. Nikon’s implementation of manual focus is rather poor, as discussed further down in the review.
With the sensor crop factor of 2.7x, you have to multiply the focal length of each lens by 2.7 to get an equivalent field of view of a full-frame camera. For example, the 10-30mm lens is equivalent to a 27-81mm lens, while the 10mm pancake is equivalent to a 27mm lens.
Unlike Sony and some other manufacturers, Nikon stays away from image stabilized camera bodies and prefers to integrate VR into lenses instead, which has been working great for many years now. The Nikon 1 system is no exception here, so image stabilization is again done on lenses. VR can be switched from Normal to Active to Off from the camera menu, unlike the rest of the DSLR VR-enabled Nikon lenses that have a VR on/off switch on the lens. Nikon initially had a problem with VR on 1 NIKKOR lenses, which would result in occasional blurry images with VR turned on. This issue has been identified and corrected through firmware updates for each VR lens (see links below). The 1 NIKKOR lenses, by the way, are the first Nikon lenses with upgradeable firmware.
The 1 NIKKOR 10mm f/2.8 pancake lens is a very compact and sharp lens, which is a great fit for the Nikon 1 system. I wish it was an f/2.0 lens (or faster) though, which would have made it a more useful lens for low-light photography. It has two big weaknesses – lack of VR and obviously inability to zoom, so I do not think it will be that popular among first time buyers. The 1 NIKKOR VR 10-35mm, on the other hand is perfect for the Nikon 1 system. It is compact when collapsed, has a great zoom range of 10-30mm (27-81mm equivalent), has VR and good performance characteristics. I used the 30-110mm telephoto lens (81mm-297mm) the least, mainly because I felt that its starting range was too long for everyday photography. Lastly, the 1 NIKKOR VR 10-100mm is just a monster that is bigger than many Nikon DSLR zoom lenses. While it is a more or less specialized lens, especially for videography (due to its ability to silently zoom via a dedicated zoom button on the lens), it is just too darn big and bulky for the Nikon 1 cameras in my opinion.
The 1 NIKKOR VR 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6 firmware update 1.02 can be downloaded from here, the 1 NIKKOR VR 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6 firmware update 1.02 can be downloaded from here and the 1 NIKKOR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 PD-ZOOM firmware update 1.01 can be downloaded from here. Make sure to download and update firmware on these VR lenses before engaging VR. Overall, VR is very effective on 1 NIKKOR lenses and I would recommend to leave it on when shooting hand-held.
If you already own Nikon F mount DSLR lenses, you can use them on the V1 with a special FT1 mount adapter (must be purchased separately). The adapter is attached to the Nikon 1 V1 and the F Mount Nikkor lens is then attached to the adapter. The FT1 will add an angle of view of 2.7 times that of the F Mount Nikkor lens’ focal length. For example, the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G will have an effective field of view of a 135mm lens.
Nikon did not hide the fact that it is working on some specialized fixed focal length lenses for portraiture and other needs, so we soon might see something like 1 NIKKOR 18mm f/1.4, which is equivalent to a 50mm lens. Nikon needs to make fast glass for the Nikon 1 cameras quickly, because that’s exactly what it lacks at the moment.
6) The new EXPEED 3 Processor
The Nikon 1 line is the first to get the new dual-core EXPEED 3 image processor. The new processor can handle a lot more throughput than the previous EXPEED 2 processor, which translates to faster frames per second, faster in-camera image processing, faster video and allows for extra features such as Slow Motion video, Smart Photo Selector and Motion Snapshot (discussed in more detail below). In fact, the Nikon 1 is currently the fastest Nikon camera for capturing images and video. When used in Electornic Shutter (HI) mode, it is capable of capturing 10 FPS while tracking a subject and up to 60 FPS in full resolution without subject tracking, which is pretty impressive. The good news for the DSLR community, is that we will be seeing some of these nice features in the upcoming Nikon DSLRs.
7) Camera Menu, Features and Responsiveness
Before I started testing all three cameras, I decided not to touch camera manuals. I wanted to see how easy it is to operate these cameras for a person that is not familiar with them. The Nikon 1 V1 camera menu is very intuitive and easy to use. Depending on which mode you are in, the camera will only display what you should be seeing and switching between playback, mode menu and setup is super easy with the rotating dial on the bottom right side of the camera. Out of the three mirrorless cameras I have tested, the Nikon 1 V1 has the best menu system in my opinion. The Sony NEX-5n menu is also pretty good, but has a lot more options in comparison, which is not necessarily good for most people out there. The worst of the 3 is the Olympus E-PL3. It has a horrid menu system. It sure is packed with a boatload of options and sub-menus, making it very hard to operate the camera. It just sucks in comparison. I will elaborate more on this in a separate E-PL3 review, but I hated the Olympus E-PL3 for this reason alone, despite the fact that its image quality is very good.
On the other hand, the simplistic menu approach of the V1 is missing some serious functions that should be there. For example, image review after a photo is taken cannot be turned off. When shooting a time lapse in very cold temperatures (see more on time lapse below), I wanted to prolong the battery life by turning off image preview and could not find a way to do it. I ended up switching image preview to EVF by pressing the “DISP” button, which I thought would not waste the battery as much as the LCD, but it is just my assumption. In-camera editing options are also very limited to cropping and resizing, which is surprising, since JPEG shooters would probably find those features useful. No HDR and video editing options that Nikon has been bundling on the latest DSLRs. Exposure bracketing is also missing, but that’s understandable, since Nikon does not provide bracketing features on its entry-level DSLRs either. By contrast, the Sony NEX-5n has all of these integrated in its firmware, including in-camera panorama and 3D image processing (and much more).
Camera responsiveness is a mixed bag. The startup and shutdown time, along with switching from EVF to LCD and vice-versa take about one second, which is not bad. When the camera goes to sleep mode, however, the wake-up time is about 2 seconds, which is way too long. I missed some shots at Bosque Del Apache and other places because of this. While you can regulate the sleep timer through “Auto power off” menu setting, you cannot change the timer to completely shut off the camera – another important feature that is missing from the camera menu.
One welcome addition, on the other hand, is a built-in intervalometer for time lapse photography. Sony DSLRs and NEX cameras are notoriously bad for time lapse photography, because they miss an intervalometer and the only option is to buy an accessory to shoot images in sequences. You can put the Nikon V1 on a tripod, set camera parameters, set the interval and the total number of shots (up to 999 shots allowed) and start the sequence. I have shot a number of time lapses and the result came out great. Just remember to set the exposure and white balance manually when shooting in JPEG format. Here is a sample time lapse I shot with the Nikon 1 V1:
The Nikon 1 V1 also sports a dual shutter system that can capture images with either a mechanical or an electronic shutter. The mechanical shutter limits the speed of the camera to 4 frames per second with autofocus, while switching to the electronic shutter can speed it up all the way to 60 fps (a theoretical ability, since the buffer can only accommodate a maximum of 30 images). There are also other differences between a mechanical and an electronic shutter, such as flash sync speed (mechanical 1/250 sec, electronic 1/60 sec) and maximum shutter speed (mechanical 1/4000 sec, electronic 1/16,000 sec).
The great Auto ISO feature we normally see on Nikon DSLRs is replaced by a much more simplified Auto ISO capability. There are three pre-defined Auto ISO modes to choose from – A3200 Auto (100-3200), A800 Auto (100-800) and A400 Auto (100-400). Neither of these options allow setting a minimum shutter speed, which is a huge drawback. There is no way to tell when camera decides to use which ISO and having no control over this threshold is very unfortunate. I understand the point of simplification of this feature for the J1 camera, but Nikon should have provided the ISO threshold option on the V1 camera.
The Smart Photo Selector and the Motion Snapshot modes (on the exposure mode dial) are interesting innovations, but not very useful/practical, in my opinion. The Smart Photo Selector works by firing 20 images in electronic shutter mode before and after the shutter button is pressed (starts when the shutter-button is half-pressed). It then analyzes these twenty images and picks the best 4-5 images automatically for you based on a number of factors, including image blur. To be honest, I am not sold on this feature – but that’s most probably because I am an advanced user and do not like some electronic algorithm to pick an image for me. I would rather do that myself. If a situation is critically important, I would rather set the camera to 60 FPS and spray and pray. As for the Motion Snapshot feature, it feels to be incomplete. The sound effects are limited to a few boring ones and worst of all, the movie files that are produced do not have these sounds embedded into them. You have to use a special Short Movie Creator software to convert it to what you would see on the camera. The movie is saved in MOV format, while the snapshot is saved in JPEG format, separate files. Motion snapshot is too short as well – the 60 FPS capture rate is played back in slow motion at 24 FPS or 2.5 seconds total.
8) Autofocus / Manual Focus Performance and Metering
The Nikon 1 system is also the first Nikon camera to have a hybrid autofocus system – a combination of phase and contrast detect autofocus. Nikon claims that it is very responsive, fast and accurate, which as I have verified, is indeed an accurate statement. And that’s with an impressive 135 focus points! In AF-S (single servo) mode, the camera uses contrast-detect AF and you can use any of the 135 focus points to acquire focus. Surprisingly, the AF performance in AF-S mode is very good, not the sluggish contrast detect we get in Live View modes of current DSLRs. The moment you switch to AF-C (continuous servo) mode, the camera changes to the hybrid AF mode with 73 focus points and does an excellent job at tracking movement in daylight conditions. In indoor environments with less light, the camera seems to switch to the same contrast detect mode and AF slows down.
So far I have taken around 2 thousand images with the V1 and I have yet to find an image that is out of focus. Yes, it does have to do with a larger depth of field due to the smaller sensor on the camera, but I have had a lot of blurry images on point and shoot cameras with even smaller sensors before and the V1 is a world better than any of them. In very difficult low-light, low-contrast situations, the camera might not be able to acquire focus and you will see the focus point flash in red when that happens. Switching to AF-S mode activates the green AF-assist lamp, which helps a great deal in acquiring focus on close subjects.
In short, Nikon’s implementation of hybrid autofocus rocks. I very much hope that this technology will make its way to Live View / Video Modes on future DSLRs. This new AF engine is probably the biggest advantage of the Nikon 1 system over its current competitors.

On the flip side, since the manual focus ring has been completely eliminated from all 1 NIKKOR lenses, manual focus has to be performed through the camera, which is a rather cumbersome and an inefficient process. You first have to switch the AF mode to MF through a dedicated AF button (bottom part of the rotary dial), then you have to hit the middle “OK” button to start manual focus operation. The up/down switch on the top back of the camera is used for zooming in and out, while the rotary dial is used to move the zoom area when pressed and change focus when rotated. Zooming in greatly decreases the resolution, which makes it difficult to obtain precise focus – a similar problem Nikon D90 DSLR has in Live View mode. This problem is obviously only related to the absence of the focus ring on the 1 NIKKOR lenses.
9) Movie Recording
Nikon 1 V1 has some impressive movie recording capabilities, again, we have not seen anything like this on any of the Nikon cameras previously. Full 1080p HD mode (H.264 compression codec in MOV file format) can be recorded at 30 fps and 1080i at 60 fps, while smaller 720 HD movies can be recorded at 60 fps as well. Unlike some of the entry-level Nikon DSLRs, the V1 is not limited to automatic exposure control for videos, which means that you can fully control the exposure in video mode. Just switch the camera to manual mode through the video recording menu and set your shutter speed and aperture to whatever you want. The camera LCD will reflect these changes and you will see exactly what you are capturing. But the biggest surprise here is the ability to autofocus and track subjects while recording videos, which works really well. Say goodbye to a typical camcorder, because the V1 can easily replace one. Video recording is limited to 20 minutes, which is more than enough for most situations.
As I have already pointed out, the Nikon 1 V1 has two separate buttons to record stills and video. This was primarily done to be able to take stills while recording video, but to be honest, I do not really see much value in this feature. I do not think it is worth having a dedicated video button on the top of the camera. A better approach would have been to designate one of the buttons on the back of the camera to capture stills if a video is being recorded. I would rather use one button to capture both stills and video.
One feature I was excited about when I got the camera was slow-motion video recording. Nikon 1 V1 has two slow-motion recording modes – 640×240/400 fps and 320×120/1200 fps, both limited to 5 seconds of action (which translates to roughly 66 total seconds on 400 fps videos, since slow motion is played back at 30 fps). While the resolution is rather low, the 400 fps videos are not bad for posting videos online. The catch with slow motion video is that it requires a lot of available light. In normal indoor environments slow motion videos come out too dark and the video would often flicker. Increasing ISO and decreasing lens aperture definitely helps; you can still fully control the exposure and even use exposure compensation if the scene is too light or too dark. The 320×120 resolution on 1200 fps videos is too small and unusable even for the web in my opinion. Here are a couple of slow-motion videos I shot at 400 FPS:
VR works great for video recording, but you have to be careful when panning the camera with VR turned on, because it will occasionally bump the camera up or down. This is normal VR behavior and the same thing would happen if you were to pan while taking stills.
Other than this, all videos look great with plenty of sharpness, colors and contrast.
10) Dynamic Range / Active D-Lighting
Smaller sensor typically means less dynamic range and with a relatively small 13.2mm x 8.8mm sensor, the dynamic range of the Nikon 1 V1 is nothing to brag about – it is obviously worse than on 1.5x crop sensors, including the Sony NEX-5n. On the other hand, shadow details on RAW images do not look too bad, even when compared to the Olympus E-PL3. As with all digital cameras, increasing camera ISO also decreases dynamic range, so shoot at base ISO of 100 if you want to preserve the most amount of information on your photographs.
HDR photographers won’t be happy with this camera, because it has no built-in HDR mode, and it does not offer any sort of exposure bracketing. Your only option is to set the camera to manual mode, then take images at different shutter speeds.
As for Active D-Lighting, if you shoot RAW and do not use Nikon’s Capture NX2 product, you should just turn it off. For all other cases, leaving Active D-Lighting On works great.
Let’s see how the camera does in ISO performance against other cameras. Choose the next page below.
ISO Performance
11) ISO Performance at low ISOs (ISO 100-800)
Some technical junk:
- White Balance: Auto, changed to “Custom”: 4660 Temp, +26 Tint in Lightroom
- EXIF information is preserved in the images
- Tested with 1 NIKKOR VR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 lens
- Aperture: f/8.0
- Manual Focus
- Active D-Lighting: Off
- Long exposure NR: Off
- High ISO HR: Off
- Image Format: RAW/NEF
- Imported images into Lightroom and cropped to 100% – no resizing was performed in Photoshop
- No exposure adjustments were performed in Lightroom (besides White Balance)
- Lightroom sharpening: 25, 1.0, 25, 0 (default)
- Lightroom export: sRGB JPEG Quality 80
Let’s take a look at how the Nikon 1 V1 performs at low ISOs. Here are some 100% crops at ISO 100, 200, 400 and 800:
Base ISO 100 looks somewhat clean, similar to DX performance, but ISO 200 already shows some noise.
ISO 400 adds a little more noise and the shadows get a little grainier, but overall it still looks pretty good. ISO 800, on the other hand, seems to be adding larger grain than ISO 400, but image detail is still preserved well.
12) High ISO Performance (ISO 1600-6400)
Let’s see what happens when ISO is boosted to much higher levels:
Even larger grains at ISO 1600 and the shadows get noticeably grainier as well. Details still look very good though. ISO 3200, which is still native ISO, is where things get considerably worse. Noise almost doubles and we see loss of details and colors.
When ISO is boosted to 6400, large grains and artifacts show up all over the image.
Overall, the ISO performance of the Nikon 1 V1 camera is very impressive for a small CX sensor, especially when compared to the competition. Let’s see how it fares against the Micro Four Thirds sensor. Select the next page below.
Compared to Olympus E-PL3
Let’s take a look at ISO performance of the Olympus E-PL3 that has a Micro Four Thirds sensor, which that is about twice bigger than the Nikon 1 V1 CX sensor. The base ISO of the Olympus sensor starts at ISO 200 and it can go all the way to ISO 12,800. Please note that the E-PL3 has a 12.3 megapixel sensor, so I had to move my camera setup back and forth to get a similar field of view. No image resizing and rescaling was performed in Photoshop – these are 100% crops. All images were shot at the same shutter speed and aperture values.
13) Nikon 1 V1 vs Olympus E-PL3 Low ISO Comparison (ISO 200-800)
Here is a comparison of both cameras at ISO 200 (Left: Nikon 1 V1, Right: Olympus E-PL3):
At base ISO 200, both cameras look about the same. The Olympus E-PL3 looks a tad sharper than the Nikon 1 V1, most likely due to better focus or optics.
At ISO 400, the Nikon 1 V1 looks slightly noisier, but the difference is not big.
Looks like ISO 800 is also more or less the same as ISO 400, with E-PL3 having a slight advantage. Let’s compare the two at higher ISOs now.
14) Nikon 1 V1 vs Olympus E-PL3 High ISO Comparison (ISO 1600-12800)
Now here is where things get interesting. The Olympus E-PL3 gets significantly worse at ISO 1600, which is clearly visible across the frame, especially in the shadows; the grain is much bigger in size. Now the Nikon 1 V1 clearly takes the lead – just take a look at the difference in the shadows.
The situation is even worse at ISO 3200 for the Olympus. Large grain specks appear all over the image and in the shadows. Image detail is lost by a great deal. The Nikon 1 V1 again wins here, I would say by a huge margin.
ISO 6400 is even worse for the Olympus E-PL3 – now the grain is killing the details. Letters are now mixed with grain and the shadow detail is completely lost. To be honest, I do not see the reason why Olympus decided to provide ISO 12800 capability – it is simply useless, as can be seen below:
15) Nikon 1 V1 vs Olympus E-PL3 Summary
As you can see from the image crops above, both cameras perform about the same at ISO speeds between 100 and 800, although the Olympus E-PL3 seems to have slightly cleaner images. The same cannot be said about its high ISO performance though – the Nikon 1 V1 takes over from ISO 1600 and clearly has an advantage in the amount of noise, especially in the shadows – all the way to ISO 6400. The ISO 12800 on the Olympus E-PL3 is useless; I do not even know why Olympus decided to leave it as an option. The 2 megapixel advantage does not make much difference either; even if the image is down-sampled to 10 megapixels, the Nikon still wins in high ISO performance. So much for the E-PL3 sensor that is twice bigger in size. A quick side note – Olympus used a 3 year old Micro Four Thirds sensor on the E-PL3 camera. The new Micro 4/3 sensors on such cameras as Panasonic DMC-GH2/G3 perform much better in comparison. Unfortunately, I could not obtain a GH2/G3 sample on time to perform additional comparisons.
The Nikon 1 V1 also has a clear lead in the autofocus area – its hybrid AF system is much faster in comparison, especially in daylight environment. In low-light situations, both cameras seem to autofocus about the same with contract detect AF. The Nikon 1 V1 has a built-in EVF, while you have to buy one for the Olympus E-PL3, so that’s another advantage on behalf of the Nikon. I also prefer the ergonomics and the button layout of the Nikon 1 V1 (except for the video recording button) – the E-PL3 has 6 tiny buttons scattered on the back of the camera (excluding the dial), while the Nikon 1 V1 has everything neatly organized with large and accessible buttons. On the other hand, the Olympus has a traditional PASM selector on the top of the camera and its video recording button is neatly placed on the top right side of the camera rear – something I wish Nikon did the same with the V1.
The biggest difference between the two, in my opinion, is the menu system. The Olympus E-PL3 has the worst menu system I have seen to date. It truly is horrendous when compared to the Nikon 1 V1 and it took me a long time to figure basic things out, like finding where to change image format from JPEG to RAW. To change ISO, you have to go two levels deep from the Custom Menu and find it somewhere in the middle of the menu. It was ridiculous and I wasted too much of my precious time figuring basic things out. I would never buy the E-PL3 if I were a beginner – the camera will scare the hell out of any beginner for sure. Sure, it has some great features like bracketing (exposure, white balance, ISO, etc), multiple exposure, customizable buttons and much more, but they are of little use if they are not easily accessible. Where Olympus right now truly has the lead is in the lens department – Olympus has a wide array of lenses that cover everything from wide angle and macro to portraits/telephoto. Nikon is committed to the CX format and we should be seeing a wider selection of all kinds of lenses very soon.
Overall, I personally would not buy the Olympus E-PL3 for the above reasons. Despite its smaller sensor size, the Nikon 1 V1 is a better camera in many ways. Oh and one more thing, coming from a Nikon DSLR background, I do prefer the aspect ratio of the V1 instead of the Micro Four Thirds 4:3 aspect ratio.
Camera Comparisons
Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony NEX-5N
Let’s see how the Nikon 1 V1 compares to the Sony NEX-5n, which has a much larger 1.5x crop factor sensor – a similar size sensor used on the Nikon D5100 and D7000 DLSRs. I had a hard time matching up images, because there is a huge difference in resolution – the Nikon 1 V1 sensor is 10 MP, while the Sony NEX-5n is 16 MP. Therefore, the Sony crops below look a little bigger.
16) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony NEX-5n Low ISO Comparison (ISO 100-800)
Here is a comparison of base ISO 100 on both cameras:
At base ISO 100, both cameras seem to perform about the same, although the shadows on the Sony seem to be a little brighter, probably because of higher dynamic range.
ISO 200 seems to be a little cleaner on the Sony NEX-5n.
The same with ISO 400 – the Sony NEX-5n is a tad cleaner.
And even at ISO 800, the NEX-5n has a very slight advantage over the V1. The strange thing is, while the shadows are a little brighter, they also seem to be slightly noisier on the Sony. Let’s see how the cameras compare at high ISO levels now.
17) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony NEX-5n High ISO Comparison (ISO 1600-25600)
Unlike the Olympus E-PL3, the Sony NEX-5n does a great job at ISO 1600. There is very little grain in the image and I would say that it looks better compared to the Nikon.
Increasing ISO to 3200 adds more noise to both images, but the Sony NEX-5n still looks better. Grain is smaller and a little more manageable than on the Nikon 1 V1.
Nikon’s maximum ISO boost is 6400 and it is the last image that I can compare against the Sony NEX-5n, which has two extra ISO levels. Again, the cameras are comparable, but the Sony NEX-5n seems to be slightly better. Both cameras seem to retain good colors at high ISOs. Here are two extra ISO levels on the NEX-5n:
The ISO 12800 crop looks pretty good, but the ISO 25600 shot is unusable for my taste.
17a) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony NEX-5n Down-Sampled High ISO Comparison (ISO 800-6400)
Comparing sensors with different resolutions can be challenging. The above comparisons show pixel-level performance, which is typically in favor of a lower resolution sensor. Without a doubt, a camera with more pixels per inch equals more noise due to simple physics – the smaller the pixel, the more the noise. Let’s see what happens when images from both cameras are normalized, which in this case means the Sony NEX-5n 16 MP image gets reduced to 10 MP. Since there are many different ways to down-sample an image in Photoshop, I tried a few different methods and came to a conclusion that the regular “Bicubic (best for smooth gradients)” resizing algorithm results in the least amount of noise, which is what I used for the below images.
As expected, the results are in favor of a high-resolution camera, which in this case is the NEX-5n:
The differences are obvious right at ISO 800 – the NEX-5n looks very clean with smaller grain. In fact, if you take the ISO 1600 sample from the NEX-5n and put it against the ISO 800 sample from the V1, you will see that NEX-5n still looks a tad better, which means that there is more than a stop of difference between the two, when down-sampled to the same resolution. The NEX-5n images will also look sharper due to this down-sampling technique.
The same story with ISO 1600 – NEX-5n looks very clean in comparison.
When putting NEX-5n ISO 3200 against V1 ISO 1600, the image from the NEX-5n is still a tad cleaner, so there is still over a stop of difference between the two.
ISO 6400 on the V1 has plenty of large grain, while the same on the NEX-5n looks cleaner with smaller grain.
Again, this test shows what happens when both cameras are at 10 MP – the extra 6 MP of resolution on the NEX-5n results in over a stop of high ISO advantage.
18) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony NEX-5n Summary
Initially, I published only 100% crops from the top of the page, where I show the pixel performance between the two cameras. I received a number of complaints from our readers that the test was rather biased, because it showed the Nikon 1 V1 performing almost as good as the Sony NEX-5n, which has a lot more resolution (this was despite the fact that I clearly stated that when images are down-sampled, the NEX-5n would have over a stop of advantage). Hence, I added one more test to this page showing “normalized” images at 10 MP, which clearly shows that the NEX-5n has over a stop of advantage compared to the V1. Don’t forget that the sensor of the NEX-5n is over 3 times larger than the one on Nikon 1 V1, so the V1 stands its ground really well with its tiny sensor. A larger size sensor also means larger lenses – and that’s Sony’s biggest weakness. It has a very compact camera body, but much bigger camera lenses (with the exception of the 16mm pancake lens). When shooting with mirrorless cameras, the Nikon 1 V1 fit my jacket pocket much easier than the Sony NEX-5n.
At the same time, a large sensor also means two things: shallower depth of field and better dynamic range – two major factors that work in NEX-5n’s favor. Sony has a few other advantages, such as swivel / touchscreen LCD, in-camera editing, HDR, panorama and 3D modes, but lacks a serious feature that the Nikon 1 V1 has, which is a built-in electronic viewfinder (EVF). An excellent high-resolution OLED viewfinder can be purchased separately, but for $350 more; plus it eats up the same socket that can be used for mounting a flash unit. I also really like the ergonomics of the NEX-5n when compared to the V1. The grip is great, much better than the little bump on the front of the V1.
Sony’s menu system is very good, but has a lot more options than on the Nikon, so beginners might find the Nikon 1 V1 easier to operate. Nikon’s stronghold is its hybrid autofocus, which works faster than Sony’s AF. So the Nikon is clearly better at tracking and shooting action / sports. On the other hand, Sony lenses have a manual focus ring and manual focus operation is much easier. Simply turning the focus ring automatically zooms in at high resolution and you can use the touchscreen to move to any area of the image you want. You could even zoom in all the way to 9.5x for even closer and more precise focus adjustment.
Comparing these two cameras, I would say that they are targeted at different audiences. The Sony NEX-5n suits photo enthusiasts and pros that shoot landscapes and portraits, because of a larger sensor, more megapixels, shallower depth of field, higher dynamic range and great image quality / ISO performance. The Nikon 1 V1, on the other hand, is a great everyday camera that can shoot action and sports – something soccer moms and birders will appreciate.
Compared to Sony A65/A77
Since I have been simultaneously testing the Sony A77 and A65 cameras, I could not resist the temptation to compare the Nikon 1 V1 ISO performance against the highest resolution APS-C sensor in the world. The Sony NEX-7 mirrorless, A65 and A77 DSLRs all share the same 24 megapixel sensor, so the below crops should be about the same for these three cameras. The translucent mirror on the A65 and A77 cameras does actually block some light, so the NEX-7 might actually perform a tad better. Again, matching field of view was difficult, so the below images appear slightly larger. Let’s take a look!
19) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony A65/A77 Low ISO Comparison (ISO 100-800)
Here is base ISO 100 comparison:

The base ISO performance of the A65/A77 cameras seems to be on par with Nikon 1 V1 performance. Noise levels are relatively low both in highlights and shadows.
ISO 200 is also clean on both with a slight advantage on behalf of the Sony.
ISO 400 does not change much and noise levels are also comparable.
At ISO 800 we start seeing bigger grain on the Sony A65/A77 sensors and the Nikon 1 V1 takes over, especially in the shadows.
20) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony A65/A77 High ISO Comparison (ISO 1600-16000)
The Sony sensor looks similar to the Olympus E-PL3 in terms of pixel-level performance at high ISOs. Anything above ISO 800 is very grainy, including ISO 1600. As can be seen from the above crops, the Nikon 1 V1 has much less and smaller grains in the image. But mind you, we are comparing 24 MP versus 10 MP!
ISO 3200 is even worse for the 24 MP Sony sensor – noise levels are very high with large grains and there is visible loss of details across the frame. Some colors are also lost as a result. The Nikon 1 V1 looks much cleaner in comparison (again, with a lot less pixels).
And ISO 6400 looks pretty unusable for my taste when viewed at 100% on the Sony A65/A77 cameras. Too much detail and colors are lost.
It is unfortunate that Sony is allowing ISO 12800 and 16000 on the new sensor for marketing purposes. These images look horrid and completely unusable.
20a) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony A65/A77 Down-Sampled High ISO Comparison (ISO 800-6400)
Let’s see how the sensors compare when the Sony A65/A77 image is down-sampled to 10 MP. Obviously, there is a huge difference in resolution here, which works in A65/A77′s advantage. Here is ISO 800 down-sized to 10 MP:
Similar to the NEX-5n, the difference between A65/A77 and the V1 is a little over 1 stop when normalized. Here is ISO 1600:
At ISO 1600, the difference seems to be slightly less, right around 1 stop. If you took the ISO 1600 crop from the A65/A77 sensor and compared it to the ISO 800 crop from the V1, they would have roughly the same amount of noise, with slight differences here and there.
ISO 3200 is not much different than ISO 1600 in terms of noise – roughly 1 stop of difference. And finally, here is the not so pretty ISO 6400:
21) Nikon 1 V1 vs Sony A65/A77 Summary
I won’t go into feature differences between these cameras, because we are not comparing apples to apples here. But one thing is clear – high resolution and small pixel size equal more noise for the new Sony sensor, when viewed at the pixel level. When down-sampled and resized to 10 MP, however, the Sony A77/A65 still shows superior performance compared to the Nikon V1 at high ISOs. The difference is not as big as between the Sony NEX-5n and the Nikon V1 (which is more than a stop), but a little less – I would say about about a stop. If you take the ISO 800 crop from the Nikon 1 V1 and compare it to the ISO 1600 crop from the Sony A65/A77, the noise levels will look about the same; maybe except for the shadows, where the Nikon 1 V1 seems to be working its firmware magic to suppress more noise. If you compare the NEX-5n high ISO crops to the A65/A77 crops, you will see that the former has slightly less noise when both are down-sampled to 10 MP.
Put into a different perspective, when down-sampled, the Sony A65/A77 looks slightly worse than the Sony NEX-5n at ISO levels above 400 (but beats it at low ISOs due to much higher resolution). Both are better than the Nikon 1 V1 by a stop or more at pretty much all ISO levels.
Compared to Nikon D700/D3
Last, but not least, I wanted to show you how the new CX sensor compares to Nikon’s full-frame FX sensor from the D700/D3 DSLR cameras. Again, the comparison is far from being fair, so this comparison is provided simply as a reference. Please note that D700′s base ISO is 200, but the camera provides an option to boost to ISO 100.
22) Nikon 1 V1 vs Nikon D700 Low ISO Comparison (ISO 100-800)
Nikon’s legendary full-frame sensor is a reference of practically noise-free performance at low ISOs.
While the Nikon 1 V1 does pretty well with noise, the difference is clear, especially at ISO 800 – the D700 is very smooth in comparison.
23) Nikon 1 V1 vs Nikon D700 High ISO Comparison (ISO 1600-25600)
Let’s take a look at what happens at high ISO levels:
At ISO 1600, the Nikon 1 V1 performs well, considering how small of a sensor it has compared to the full-frame D700.
Nikon 1 V1 loses plenty of detail at ISO 3200 when compared to the D700, which stays relatively clean and perfectly usable.
Boosted to ISO 6400, the Nikon 1 V1 suffers and plenty of details are lost in comparison.
The extra 2 ISO levels on the D700 are very grainy, pretty much unusable for my taste.
24) Nikon 1 V1 vs Nikon D700 Summary
I was rather surprised to see how well the Nikon 1 V1 performs against Nikon’s high-end full-frame sensor. With a more than 7x smaller surface area, the Nikon 1 V1 is only about ~2 stops behind the D700 sensor in ISO performance. This is great news for the DSLR users, because it shows how superb the future sensors will be on the upcoming Nikon DSLRs. Another good news for the Nikon 1 V1 is color reproduction – colors look almost as good as on the D700.
Again, the above comparison is provided only as a reference, since we are comparing a small-sensor mirrorless camera to a high-end DSLR.
Summary and Image Samples
25) Summary and Image Samples
Overall, I am impressed by the Nikon 1 V1 – it is a solid, high-quality camera with excellent performance characteristics. While my initial thoughts after the Nikon 1 system was announced were rather negative, after using the camera actively for over a month, I got to like it, at least when compared to the competition. It does have a few problems though, as I have expressed in this review. The biggest source of complaints for the Nikon 1 system is its tiny CX sensor, which is almost twice smaller than Micro Four Thirds, over 3 times smaller than APS-C and over 7 times smaller than full-frame. As a result, many dubbed the Nikon 1 system as a glorified and expensive point and shoot camera, which it is not.
As I have shown in my ISO tests, the Nikon 1 CX sensor performs very well for its size. It easily beats the Olympus E-PL3 (which unfortunately uses an old Micro 4/3 sensor) at high ISOs, even when the latter is down-sampled to 10 MP. Both Sony NEX-5n and Sony A77/A65 sensors have a resolution advantage over the Nikon 1 V1, with the latter having more than twice the number of pixels. This obviously translates to better performance when high-resolution images are down-sampled to 10 MP, with NEX-5n leading the comparison with over a full stop of difference and A65/A77 with a slightly worse 1 stop of difference. But then, we are comparing a much smaller CX sensor to an APS-C size sensor used in DSLR camera bodies. It is expected that the Sony cameras perform better and they should, given their 3x sensor size advantage. Had Nikon used a larger, more equivalent sensor, we would have seen better ISO performance. How does Nikon achieve these kinds of low noise levels at high ISOs with such a small sensor? The answer lies in noise-reduction techniques that Nikon has developed over the years. It has done it on DSLRs like Nikon D3s and D7000 and it is also doing the same thing on the Nikon 1 V1 / J1 cameras. Images coming out of the sensor get polished and noise levels reduced, even at the RAW image level. Some might call this a dirty technique or cheating, but I do not see anything wrong with doing that. At the end of the day, it is about what I get from a camera. An average user would not care if the manufacturer uses noise reduction at high ISOs – as long as the image looks clean and details are retained (and they are). Nikon decided that 10 megapixels is good enough for most people, which I do agree with. As I have already said before, a good general-purpose sensor should have a good balance of megapixels and ISO noise, which the Nikon 1 sensor does with 10 megapixels on its small 13.2×8.8mm CX sensor. And its color reproduction is also very good, on par with modern Nikon DSLR cameras.
Other advantages of the Nikon 1 V1 camera worth noting are the built-in electronic view finder (which turned out to be a big deal, since none of the other mirrorless cameras I tested have one; you have to purchase them separately), instant hybrid autofocus, very quick image and video recording speeds, great ergonomics (except for a few annoyances, as pointed out on the first page of the review), built-in intervalometer, excellent metering, great battery life and ease of use. On the flip side, the smaller sensor results in larger depth of field and lower dynamic range, camera menu is missing some important features, no live exposure preview in manual mode, Auto ISO is implemented poorly with no customization options, lack of in-camera editing, non-swivel/non-touchscreen LCD and a few other annoyances. Except for the sensor size and the camera body, most of these issues can be addressed through firmware updates. To compensate for the large depth of field issue, Nikon should quickly release fast-aperture f/1.2-f/1.4 lenses that can help isolate subjects better than the current slow lenses available today. The 1 NIKKOR lenses are as good as all other Nikkor lenses in terms of sharpness, contrast and colors. I am glad that Nikon has incorporated much more advanced capabilities to these lenses, which give us the ability to fix lens issues via firmware updates – something we have never been able to do before. In fact, one serious issue with image stabilization / VR has already been identified by Nikon and firmware updates for all new VR lenses have been recently released.
As for the cost of the camera, at first, its price of $900 for a single 10-30mm lens kit sounds steep, but then compare it to the Olympus E-PL3 + 14-24mm kit that costs $679, which quickly goes up to $860 with an EVF added. Or the Sony NEX-5n, which easily goes over $1K with an EVF added (granted you would be getting a much better OLED EVF). True, the E-PL3 and the NEX-5n come with flash units, but you cannot even remotely compare those little flashes to the SB-N5 speedlight for the Nikon 1 system. To me, they are no better than the crappy built-in flash on the Nikon 1 J1 camera. Oh, and once you mount an EVF on either the E-PL3 or the NEX-5n, you cannot simultaneously use the flash, which is not a problem for the Nikon 1 V1. The biggest difference is once again the sensor size, but as I have demonstrated in this review, a larger sensor does not automatically mean better image quality. In fact, as in the case with the Sony NEX-5n, larger sensors require larger lenses, which sort of defeats the purpose of a compact camera system.
At the end of the day, it is all about one’s needs. Pros, semi-pros and photo enthusiasts that need a smaller camera than a DSLR will probably choose the Sony NEX-5n/NEX-7 cameras for their larger sensors, more megapixels, higher dynamic range, etc., while the Nikon 1 V1 is a great fit for everyday and fast-action photography. It will be interesting to see how Nikon will continue to develop the Nikon 1 system. I hope that the issues pointed out above will be addressed through firmware updates and better and richer features will be delivered in upcoming Nikon 1 cameras. We should be seeing more lens choices very soon, so I am looking forward to another evaluation of the Nikon 1 cameras when those lenses are announced.
Meanwhile, I am excited about the upcoming DSLR cameras, because I am hoping that some of the great technology found on the Nikon 1 V1 will make its way into new DSLR cameras that will be announced in 2012.
26) Where to buy and availability
B&H is currently selling the Nikon 1 V1 + 10-30mm kit for $896.95.
27) More image samples
Click here to download the full-size version of the above image.
Click here to download the full-size version of the above image.
Click here to download the full-size version of the above image.
Click here to download the full-size version of the above image.
Click here to download the full-size version of the above image.































































































Comprehensive article, as usual.
The best statement you made in the whole article was: “At the end of the day, it is all about one’s needs.”
Thank you for your feedback Peter!
Mr. Nasim,
I must thank you for your effort on this comprehensive review :)
Are those photos shot RAW and processed?
Suhaimi, yes, all photos are shot in RAW and then processed in LR 3.6 (CR 6.6).
Cool. Thank you for your reply. The photos look great and inspiring :)
Thanks for the review Nasim.
I’m finding very similar conclusions with my J1 – including having lost the speedlight cover! (very bad design after 5 years in development!). But aside from that I love it. It produces great pictures with great ease. I’m hoping the Adobe RAW converted will be released soon to complete the package. Let’s hope for some more lenses soon.
KSPGM, you can download LR 3.6 and CR 6.6 RC, which support both J1 and V1 cameras.
sorry, V1 and hot shoe cover!
Another great review, thank you!
Well, it looks like we have to wait for V1 price decrease and for few bright “pancake” lenses!
I am afraid Sony went “a bridge too far” with megapixels in it’s new APS-C sensor. Nikon may use it in D400 with much better noise-control algorithms.
Michael, Nikon promised to release a bunch of 1 NIKKOR lenses in 2012, so let’s see what happens.
I am not a fan of this camera but I like the results it is producing. I must say that the pictures you have here are amazing for this cam. True Nikon colors. How did you process these? Did you capture in RAW? These look like RAW with Capture NX2 post-processing. Thanks for the review!
Thank you Pankaj!
All images are shot in RAW and processed in Lightroom.
Too bad Nasim you have not used latest Panasonic m4/3 bodies in your comparison. Panasonic m4/3 af is the fastest in industry in mirrorless bodies (faster than Nikon 1, Sony NEX, and Olympus), the high ISO in latest 16MP bodies, like GH2 and G3, are more than a stop better than Olympus, G3 is a very small body with tilt display and excellent built-in-viewfinder, it has a better grip, and a normal size hot shoe, on-screen af, etc, and it costs much less than Nikon V1. Not sure why you keep using Olympus which has not upgraded sensor in its m4/3 cameras in the last 2 years still using the same 12mp sensor. Panasonic is in the forefront of m4/3 you need to use Panasonic and not Olympus next time in your comparison.
Dmitry, I have compared V1 to the GF1 and GH2. The AF on the V1 is as fast (in my opinion – regardless of tech specs) and MUCH more accurate than the GH2 (tracks during video which the GH2 can’t do – note this is not continuous AF but tracking AF). The GF1 is not even in the same class at all so not worth comparing.
While the GH2 might be TECHNICALLY faster, in use it lags well behind the V1. Noise is the same at ISO 3200. Overall the V1 handles better, has far better metering and auto WB and is simply a more fun camera to use (I also compared it to my current D7000). I also find the out of the box IQ of the V1 superior, Nikon does a wonderful job with color and skin tones. The GH2 is just not a great still camera, although it’s a superb video camera.
Thank you for your feedback Joe, appreciate the quick review.
Dmitry, I was supposed to receive the Samsung NX200 and Panasonic GH2 for testing, but I did not receive them on time, so I could not include them in the test…I ended up cancelling my order, since I did not want to only perform lab tests without actually using the camera on the field.
Do you plan on reviewing Panasonic m4/3 camera in any capacity then?
Dmitry, sometime in the future :) Just need to finish up all other reviews first (have 10+ that I have the material for)
Thank you for your indepth review of the Nikon 1, my one month, amateur use of this excellent small camera goes along with your findings.
My D300/d700 and pro lenses are languising on the shelf since I bought the Nikon 1 and the 30-110 has even tried birding with relative sucess. It seems that the maket goes along the line of smaller and better and perhaps Nikon should worry that this new baby will no eat into their DSLR sales.
Of course, for birding, my passion, nothing will replace, so far, the D300s and the big guns!
Happy to note that you and your wife are a real pro team and work together in harmony, as I do with my photograph fan wife :-) ,Peter
Peter, you are most welcome!
When I was in Bosque del Apache, I used the V1 a few times and I agree, it can do relatively good. However, after about 10-15 minutes, I ended up switching to my D700 + 300mm f/4 + TC-14E that I had with me at the time. A lot of fast moving birds in low light were a challenge for the V1, while the D700 handled the situation beautifully. I do not think the Nikon 1 system will eat DSLR sales, as it has its place when compared to the DSLRs. If birds were perched or flying in good light, the Nikon 1 would do pretty good with its fast AF.
Nasim. That is a very, very comprehensive review – you should be congratulated. Your images are superb – and bear testimony to the abilities of this new camera. Like many who will read this, I am considering purchasing this for ‘everyday’ use – as a fuss-free (almost) point and shoot tool; I never take the D3s out with me because the kit’s too heavy. As a result, I’m a pro-photographer with few personal memories captured! But, also like many who will read this, there’s a part of me that says ‘this camera’s simply not quite right’! It’s not the influence of the Nikon-bashers, nor the hullaballoo that the small sensor has caused. It’s other things. I’ve picked up the camera in a store (where the staff were clueless) and find it’s missing certain important things (which may be resolved in firmware updates). Can you tell me, for instance, whether the V1 allows you to set a specific ISO… or are you limited to the three pre-sets? It pains me to think that – however good the camera’s reduced noise is – I may take a shot that’s at a higher ISO than I think it could have been! Many thanks. Nigel (UK).
Nigel, thank you for your feedback!
Both the Nikon 1 J1 and V1 cameras have full control of ISO – you can set it to whichever value you want in 1 stop increments from ISO 100 to ISO 6400. The three “Auto” presets I talked about are for setting Auto ISO – a similar feature you have on the D3s, but with limitations (can’t set the minimum shutter speed before ISO changes). I wish Nikon provided the ability to set the min shutter speed, as I normally set my min shutter speed to a relatively low value, since I have a pretty good hand-holding technique. With the current Auto ISO implementation on the Nikon 1 system, I have no idea exactly when ISO changes – does Nikon factor in the focal length of the lens, whether VR is turned on or not, etc.
As for me personally, till Nikon releases fast f/1.2-f/1.8 primes and hopefully fixes some of the issues I discussed in the review via a firmware update, I will wait. Just like you, I shoot with high-end DSLRs, including the Nikon D3s, and I find myself leaving the cameras at home due to their big size and weight. I would like to get a good camera that I can take with me all the time. The Sony NEX-5n seems to be a great candidate for this at the moment, but its lenses are too darn big. I do not want another camera that will be sitting at home, just because of its size. My preference would be to get something like a V1 (a viewfinder is a must for me, since I have a hard time framing my shots with an LCD), plus a very compact lens, but something a little faster and longer than the 10mm f/2.8. Ideally, something in the 50mm FX range like an 18mm f/1.4.
Thanks for the reply Nasim. The chap in the shop (as I said, he was clueless) couldn’t show me how to set the ISO, other than ‘auto’ modes. It’s a relief, as I like to control that as much as I do shutter speed an aperture.
I agree with you re. the NEX-5n – I want something smaller as a ‘carry-around’… and if Nikon release a few fast-aperture fixed lenses, the V1 has a lot of appeal. Especially, as you say, if they were to bring out a 50/1.8 or 50/1.4 equivalent. Currently, my ‘pocket’ camera is a Canon G12… and for a committed Nikonian of nearly 30 years, that really hurts! Plus, it’s not really usable over ISO200. The in-store tests I did on the V1 (without flash) were most impressive – even at ISO800!
Once again, thanks for your most expert opinion. ATB. Nige
Nigel,
You can select, vertually everything in the V1 from the menu system – which (if you are a nikon user) you should find completely intuitive. I taught myself virtually all of the functionality just by playing with it – then read the manual!
ISO can be set in 1EV stops – but only from an internal menu (easy to access).
My main criticism is lack of customisation. It would have been better with, perhaps, just one custom button like the almost useless F button, for instance. Then with menu preset to one function and F button to another, you are almost covered for instant manual control – maybe in the next version?
As to performance – go for it! It is suprisingly good. I have passed on my P7000 to a friend as, like you, I was unhappy with using ISO 100 all the time to get a reasonable picture quality.
Like many responders, it seems like my several kiolgrams of D300S + lenses is staying in the dark cupboard most of the time from now on … coming out only for special shoots. Well that is what this V1 is all about isn’t it?
Nasim,
Thanks for the comprehensive review. I am happy owner of Sony NEX camera and it is interesting to compare it with the competition.
Also, I impressed with excellent photos that you throw between lines. I use Lightroom 3 for my picture processing, but I never able to active such sharp and clear jpg-s when I shrink them to smaller resolution. Even if I reduce size to decent 800×800 px with minimal jpg compression – the loss of detail is obvious.
If youncan share tips of making good pictures for web viewing – i”ll appreciate.
Alex, you are most welcome!
Right after I am done publishing a couple of more reviews, I will post a detailed howto + video on exactly how I post-process my images for the web.
One of the best Nikon 1 review so far. Makes lots of sense. Thanks for the time and effort that you put into this analysis. Congratulations, Peter
Thank you for your feedback Peter, I appreciate it.
Nasim this review is easily one of the best reviews of the V1/J1 I’ve seen until now – at least in the top 3. The review is very balanced with both the positives and negatives. Of course your speculations about which people this camera is for, will very much depend on individual requirements and preferences.
At least for me, a hobby photographer having a D300 and a boatload of lenses, I believe the V1 system will replace my DSLR gear for at least 70% of my photography and then be used in many more situations were I don’t bother or it’s not practical to drag my DSLR gear with me.
Oh and the pictures – simply outstanding quality. Looking at the few full size samples available, for example the desert cliff in the middle of low vegetation (6th picture on p.7) – I almost get dizzy looking at the details from front to back – incredible picture. And the butterfly picture (8th picture on p.7) looks very promising for macro shooters – it’s sharp and within DOF from head to tail – even when its body is not parallel to the sensor.
Thanks a lot for your effort Nasim
Thank you for your feedback Ole, I really appreciate it!
I can’t wait till Nikon releases fast primes for the V1/J1 cameras – the lens selection is a little weak at the moment :( The current glass is sharp and good, but Nikon desperately needs f/1.2-f/1.4 lenses, so that we can put an end to “autofocus is fast because depth of field is too large” debate :)
“Look at the brand new 24 megapixel Sony APS-C sensor used on the NEX-7, A65 and A77 cameras – while it has a lot more pixels than the Nikon 1 V1 camera, its high ISO performance is rather poor. ”
The ISO performance of V1 is better than NEX 5N or NEX 7?
Well, not according to DXO Labs.
Sports (Low-Light ISO) scores:
Nikon V1: 346
NEX-5N: 1079
NEX-7: 1016
The numbers speak for themselves.
The scores of NEX-5N and NEX-7 are three times higher than that of V1.
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/745|0/(brand)/Nikon/(appareil2)/736|0/(brand2)/Sony/(appareil3)/737|0/(brand3)/Sony
Ctaya, these are my tests and my observations on what I see from each camera. As I have already stated before in multiple places, the 24 MP sensor would have much better results when the image is down-sampled to 10 MP. As for its pixel performance, no matter what DxO says, high ISO performance of the V1/J1 sensors is superior – I provide image samples to prove my observation (and please tell me if you see something different from the crops I provided). Whether Nikon can do this with its aggressive noise-reduction algorithms or through other sensor technologies, it doesn’t matter – at the end of the day, it is the final output, not the sensor itself that truly matters.
As for low ISO performance, especially base ISO – without a doubt, the Sony NEX-5n/7 are going to be superior, especially on dynamic range. That’s why, I specifically pointed out that landscape/fashion photographers are much better off with the Sony cameras than the V1/J1 – because they rarely shoot at high ISOs.
As for me, if I were to buy a smaller camera today for my needs, it would be most likely the NEX-5n or the NEX-7.
Oh and by the way, you quoted me say “its high ISO performance is rather poor” and yet you are asking “the ISO performance of V1 is better than NEX 5N or NEX 7?” I specifically talked about ISO 800 and above performance on the new Sony cameras.
Dear Mansurov,
I do not want to get into further discussion on this. Your review is open for everyone to see and so are other reviews and the DXO Lab tests. Let the readers judge.
To me, you review is biased, especially in the most important part of any review: the summary.
If you feel differently, that is fine with me.
By the way, I am a Nikon user, starting right from D100. So I am not a Nikon basher and I accept that V1 is a very good camera, satisfying the need of many people.
Ctaya, I updated the review with the data that you and others considered “missing”, which is down-sampling the Sony NEX-5n and A65/A77 to 10 MP and looking at differences (which I was planning to do in my upcoming NEX-5n review). As I have already pointed out, the NEX-5n is better by more than a stop, while the A65/A77 is about a stop better.
Don’t get me wrong, I was not trying to show that V1′s sensor is better than Sony’s – it is not and it cannot be, because it is 3 times smaller. It is expected that the low-ISO performance on the Sony cameras is going to be better. I show this even at the pixel level. And when you down-sample those images to 10 MP, the difference is much greater, so I am not that far off from DxO’s findings.
Again, I think the biggest confusion comes from people not reading the whole review but only looking at the summary page (which btw has been revised). They think that I am praising the V1 and neglecting the NEX-5n, which I am not – I have already pointed out that I would pick the NEX-5n over the V1 for my photography needs, despite its size and lack of EVF disadvantages.
On dpreview.com it’s possible to make a high ISO comparison between a lot of cameras.
For me, the Nikon V1 has a better output and less noise at 3200 ISO (RAW) compared to the NEX 7. But detail resolution is better on the NEX 7 because of the higher resolution of the sensor (24 MP vs. 10 MP):
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonynex7/page26.asp
Carmelo, it also depends on how you look at it. My original review only provided pixel-level performance, which shows that the Nikon 1 V1 performs exceptionally well. However, if you were to “normalize” all images to the smallest resolution, which in this case is 10 MP, then the higher resolution Sony sensors have a lead.
I updated the review with down-sampled comparisons to show both sides of the story. In short, the NEX-5n is over a stop better than the Nikon 1 V1 at 10 MP.
Stunning photo of Deadhorse State Park! Can’t believe the V1 could take great landscapes. Maybe there is more than meets the eye with this camera.
Thank you for your feedback Brian!
What are the main differences between the V1 and the J1, exception for the viewfinder?
Thank you for your great review
Mattia, the differences are big. Mechanical shutter vs electronic shutter, worse LCD on the J1, no accessory jack, different body construction and build and more.
I would not recommend the J1. In my opinion, it is overpriced for what it can deliver (for my needs).
Now that’s how you review a camera! Thank you so much for the excellent review.
“Just switch the camera to manual mode through the video recording menu and set your shutter speed and aperture to whatever you want. The camera LCD will reflect these changes and you will see exactly what you are capturing.”
Does this quote mean that the V1 provides a live exposure preview in manual mode for video, but not for photos? That seems strange to me – if the camera can already do it, why wouldn’t Nikon include the feature for manual photos? How likely do you think it is that Nikon will issue a firmware update to enable live exposure previews in manual mode for photos?
I’m new to the photography world, and I’m trying to choose between the NEX-5n and the V1 for a do-it-all camera: something that gives good results in auto mode but also lets me try my hand at some “real photography” once in a while. Video is important for me, too, including the ability to look at my golf swing in at least 60 fps. It’s a tough choice but I think I’m leaning towards the V1.
Thank you for your feedback Scott!
Yes, you are correct – exposure changes are visible in video mode (when shooting manual), but not when capturing photos. Which is odd and I hope it is a bug that Nikon will address very soon via a firmware update.
As for your NEX-5n vs V1 dilemma, if you need the best image quality, the NEX-5n is the obvious choice. However, if you need fast AF and 60 FPS, then the V1 is better.
Tough choice! :)
I recently sent back my V1 for a Nex 5n. Boy, am I sorry. I’m now going back to the V1; it’s by far the better camera for people like Scott and myself, people who don’t want to fool with a complex user interface or controls.
I’m not new to photography; I did most of mine in the analog age: three controls at most. Now in the digital age, you tend to lose sight of what really matters — like focus and exposure — because you get sidetracked with all the bells and whistles — like HDR, megapixels, touchscreen, stills during video, IA, etc.
I tried the GH2, NEX 3 & 5N, E-Pl1. The V1 is the only camera, out of the box, that delivers great images under most conditions without having to deal with superfluity.
Why? Because of its great focusing and metering. And its handy toggle control that’s much easier to manage than the dial controls on most cameras.
I’m sure my opinion won’t matter to many — the people who love nested layers of software controls and have the patience to immerse themselves therein. But what about those of us who just want to shoot. I’m not talking about Point and Shoot; I’m talking about an ease of shooting that’s proportional to good results, i.e., interchangeable lenses, RAW format, etc.
+ 1 !!!
That’s exactly how I feel about modern cameras which forget the basics.
Hi Nasim,
Great review, and love the pictures! Thanks for the time you take to write information about cameras, lenses and postprocessing, much appreciated!
I am a photography enthusiast. I shoot mostly pictures of my family, nature, landscapes, and travel. Right now I have an Olympus EPL1 with the kit lens and panasonic 20mm F1.7. Always shoot raw and use LR 3. Looking for a more responsive system, with a better sensor, but don’t want to carry around heavy equipment.
My leading candidates are the D5100 and V1.
Where I always get confused, is people tell you to buy the glass.
I just love the look of photos that are taken with great glass, with perfect AF.
What is the lowest cost, lightest kit, that can equal or approach the best Nikon glass on say a D5100?
We are talking in good light to medium low light (I am not a low light junky).
Can the V1 with its 2 kit lenses come really close?
Or, I need to get a D5100 and some great primes (can’t afford the F2.8 zooms and they are too heavy), and maybe a mid-range zoom?
Would really appreciate some help clearing up this confusion.
Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback Bruce!
The V1 comes nowhere close real DSLR performance and it never will. I would not look at it as a DSLR alternative – even Nikon does not want it to be. If you want the best image quality, your answer is the Nikon D5100 with a couple of good lenses. To start off, I would get a good all-around lens, like the Nikon 16-85mm and add a good f/1.8 prime for portraits, like the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 or the Nikon 35mm f/1.8.
Hope this helps :)
I do agree with your statement Nasim, but I believe this is just the beginning, and we may be very surprised by the next generation (V2 ?) which, evidently, will correct the V1 flaws and take it to a much higher level. Already, this V1 gives results which are better than the D100 and even the D70. So, why should it stop there ?… :)
The Firmware-Update 1.10 for the Nikon V1 is available from the Nikon Europe site:
https://nikoneurope-de.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/51023
It adds support to the FT1-adapter and includes a new (very useful) hotpixel mapping function.
I’m a possessor of the new Nikon V1. I think that the Nikon V1 is a valid alternative to the m4/3 system in terms of high ISO noise and autofocus speed. I prefer to carry the Nikon V1 around instead of my D700. The distorsion of the Nikon 1 lenses is well corrected and it doesn’t need a very strong software correction like on Olympus or Panasonic cameras. The automatic white balance is very accurate (better than on a D700). The colours are very natural yet in the standard option. I think that Nikon has done a very good job. Now, I’m waiting for a very fast standard prime lens.
Sorry, I wanted to say: “The colours are very natural in the standard option.”
Too bad Nikon has not fixed any of the other issues in their firmware. I am hoping that more firmware updates with new features and actual fixes will follow!
I agree about white balance and colors – very similar to DSLR performance for those.
Lovely pictures! By seeing your pictures, I can conclude all cameras are very good!
Nice review.
Thank you for your feedback Nivas!
Nasim, as always your review is a real joy to read. Informative, educational and your tone, full of humility.
Thank you for all the effort in sharing your thoughts. I’m a D90 user and looking for a small camera for my better half. Its now between the Fuji X10 and Nikon1 V1.
Thank you again. I look forward to reading your reviews in the future.
Salaam
Thank you Abdul!
Amazing review, congratulations!
I sposted a link to your article on my BLOG: http://www.mjfotografie.de/blog/wordpress/
All the best
Thank you for the feedback and the link!
hi, i recently told my friends to get this camera for me overseas. i can’t wait to get this camera and try it out! but i told my friends to get the 10mm lens for the camera and i was wondering if it was a bad decision? i usually like to take photos of nature, landscapes but i also want to use it to take photos of my friends and family. i heard that the pancake lens don’t have a focus, would that be a problem for a amateur like me?
thanks!
Natta, who told you that the pancake does not autofocus? It certainly does! It is a very compact and nice lens for both the V1 and the J1.
whoops, i think what i meant was that the pancake lens does not zoom. would that be a problem for an amateur like me? like i said before, i want to use the lens mostly for landscape photography so is the 10mm lens a good option for this type of photography?
one more question, those landscape images that you took are stunning! but are they raw or processed?
thanks!
Natta, that’s why the V1/J1 cameras come with a kit zoom lens. You should only get the pancake if you are worried about the size and need a little bit of better low-light capability.
As for the images posted here, every single one was taken in RAW.
And don’t forget you do have a zoom with the pancake: Your two legs !… :)
Great review, very thorough and the comparisons were helpful. I was most surprised by the High Iso comparisons between the V`1 and the D700. Given the small sensor, the results were much better than I expected. Can’t wait to see this performance trickle down into Nikon’s future DSLR’s. When I tried out the V1 in store, I was impressed by the refresh rate during Live View. It seemed to refresh at 60fps and looked alot smoother than other cameras. The build quality was decent. What I originally thought was an overpriced and pointless camera turned out to be something much different and unique.
William, thank you for your feedback! Yes, I can’t wait to see the new Nikon DSLRs with similar high ISO performance. Nikon D4 and D800 should have a phenomenal sensor performance!
Oh, and I forgot to mention, your sample images are always top notch and are worlds better than the sample images shown by other websites. Just goes to show that the person behind the camera is more important than the camera itself.
Thank you William :)
I try to go out and do some real shooting when testing cameras, which is why it takes me a lot longer to write and publish these reviews…
Hi Nasim,
Thanks so much for the feedback, it helps more than you know; I was checking eagerly every day for an update!
I am still really confused about an issue which does not seem to get much attention by reviewers (except for you and a handful of other real world reviewers). The issue is the amazing clarify / sharpness / colors / micro-contrast /etc … that is achieved with the best glass, like Canon L series, or Nikon pro lenses (with nano-crystal coating). Lets just call it the “magical” property of pro glass. It seems to be something real. For example, I searched dpreview and found some discussions about Nano-Crystal coating, and some respectable photographers commented they see a significant differences with the NC coating. You see similar discusions about the “magic” of L glass, or Leica glass, etc… Some lens reviews will comment on the amazing contrast or colors. However, this “magical” property of a lens seems not to be captured by the standard quantifiable tests, like MTF, distortion, etc… Can you help shed some light on this issue? Is this effect even real or is it the imagination of wishful photographers. If it is real, what is the underlying reason?
As for my own quest, my goal is to get a camera that can capture that “magical” image quality that only pro glass can deliver, with the lowest weight. For that reason, I ordered a Nikon d5100 with the Nikon 24-120 F4 a few days ago. It will weigh about 1200 grams, which is heavier than I would like, and may have some balance issues, but I can’t find any better alternative for my criteria. Its certainly much better than a D700 with 24-70 F2.8!
I had high hopes for the Sony NEX7, but the only pro lens that will focus fast is the Zeiss 24mm. Canon of course has the 24-105 F4L, but weight is no better than Nikon. I had also considered the m 4/3 cameras, but the sensors and AF are lagging behind. Finally, I had considered the Sony Alpha and Pentax cameras, with their Zeiss 16-80 and Pentax 17-70 lenses respectively, but they are not much lighter than Nikon either, and I am not sure about the “magical” quality of those lenses compared to Nikon pro glass.
Anyway, about the V1. I had been hoping that the V1 might have some of this “magic” (albeit with worse low noise performance, worse absolute sharpness, etc…). I can live with those limitations if the “magical” quality is there. I had high hopes, because of your review, and what Steve Huff, Kirk Tuck and others have said about the V1. They all were impressed with the amazing colors and contrast of the V1. Are they talking about that “elusive” magical quality?
Bruce, it is hard to explain what you are asking about in a couple of sentences, because optics can get very complex. There are many different factors involved in lenses – it starts from production of the actual lens glass. Top of the line pro lenses are expensive, because Nikon puts the best glass inside those lenses. And that’s before we even talk about lens design and type of glass. No matter how you melt glass, there will always be optical imperfections, just like you see in diamonds. Everything from bubbles to foreign particles. Nikon thoroughly inspects all lenses during production and chooses the best ones to go inside pro lenses. Cheaper non-pro lenses obviously do not get as much attention. Next, pro lenses typically have very complex lens designs involving special curved lenses (such as aspherical) with high refractive index to increase sharpness, decrease lens aberrations and improve contrast. On top of that, Nikon adds special coating such as Super Integrated Coating (SIC) and Nano Crystal Coat (N) on important lens elements within the lens design to decrease internal light reflections. So pro lenses are better not just because of a single factor, but a combination of all of them. Older pro lenses with no N glass are still very good when compared to newer non-pro lenses with it. But the newer pro lenses with N glass are even better. As I have written in some of my reviews, Nano Crystal Coat does improve the overall image quality of lenses (especially colors), so Nikon has been adding it on all pro lenses for a reason :)
And you are right – these things cannot be typically measured in lab tests. Sometimes even MTF charts are not very relevant. A lower-end lens might show better lab performance than a high-end pro lens. Doe it mean that it is better? No, not necessarily. That’s why I always tell my readers to read my reviews (and in fact any other review on the Internet) with a grain of salt, because I realize that there are many things that lens tests do not reveal. I do my best to go out and shoot as much as possible with any lens or camera I test, so that I could talk about the “overall” impression rather than pure lab tests. But sometimes it is just too hard to talk positively about something that showed poor performance in lab tests – people want proof and I can’t just say “lens A has magic that lens B does not” :)
As for compact cameras, unfortunately, there are no equivalents out there today that can do what DSLRs can. The NEX-5n and NEX-7 are very close, but still not DSLR-like. If you are looking for the best compact camera system out there today – then Sony’s products are, in my opinion, the best. Their lenses are not small, but that’s the consequence of an APS-C sensor. Larger sensor always equals larger glass…
As for the V1, it performs very well for a compact camera system, but nowhere close to what a DSLR system can do. And that’s how Nikon wants to position the product anyway, because they are afraid that anything more than that would eat up their entry-level camera sales. A logical move from the marketing and product positioning standpoint.
In the midst of the bustle and bluster of “more pixels, better glass, lower price…Nikon you have failed us..” in the commentary following the review posted on Nikon Rumours, I found a link to your well balanced, beautifully photographed review.
While I will wait and see what comes next in the V1 lense lineup before committing to the V1 system, I can see a time rapidly approaching where the trade off between weight and quality may finally see the pack of bodies and lenses I carry into the hills reduced to a day pack with a snack and some water.
Thank you for your feedback Dave, I really appreciate it!
CNET has rated J1 in the top 10 blunders of 2011
http://www.cnet.com/2300-33506_1-10010531.html?tag=epicStories
But I’m still tempted to buy one for regular family shooting. My D700 is too bulky for family business, V1 should certainly fulfil that hardship of the DSLR.
Ben, in a way, I do agree with CNET – the J1 is a disappointment in my opinion and it is certainly overpriced as stated on their website. Nikon realizes that they screwed up with its pricing, which is why you see it at $150 lower price now.
hi nasim, a very interesting and in deep review indeed!
a more subjective and artistic question, now:
i like very much the distinctive ‘look’ of d700 pictures:
grain at 6400 is beautiful, film-like, without chroma specs.
colours are more agreable than canon, in my view.
pictures are much less ‘electronic’ and ‘cartoon’ than canon or sony.
what do you think of V1, in these terms?
by the way, shure you can make beautiful pictures with any camera in pp… but i am speaking about native jpg, that in my opinion in d700 are unequaled.
merry xmas!
Gian, I would not compare the V1 to the D700 – you would surely be disappointed when comparing image samples; a full-frame sensor vs a 2.7x crop factor sensor…
The good news, is that the colors you are used to seeing on Nikon cameras are still there on the V1, including Nikon’s color adjustments in firmware.
I can’t believe that this review makes no mention of the FT1 adapter, and no samples showing results from any of Nikon’s fine telephoto lens lineup.
TM, the FT1 adapter was not available for me to test. In fact, it is still not available in the US, so how do you expect me to provide samples?
I love this review, Nasim! And I especially like the sample photos. It seems like you spent a lot of time testing this camera in various scenarios, amazing job! My only question is: why don’t you make all the samples downloadable in hi-res? Sometimes one image in its original resolution can say more more than thousand words.
Dmitry, thank you for your feedback! I don’t provide high resolution samples for every image because those images are my work and I do not want them stolen and printed elsewhere (believe it or not, it has happened in the past). I am comfortable posting some images that I really don’t care about, but not others that I might use in my portfolio or for print.
Well I totally believe it could happen with such a great pics. I’d personally consider it as a honor ;).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RTA29ii4Tw
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Lens-Adapters/3613/FT1-Mount-Adapter.html
The FT1 Mount Adapter allows you to use certain legacy F Mount NIKKOR lenses (those designed for use with Nikon D-SLR/SLR cameras) on the Nikon 1 V1. The Mount Adapter is attached to the Nikon 1 V1 and the F Mount NIKKOR lens then attached to the adapter. The FT1 will add an angle of view of 2.7 times that of the F Mount NIKKOR lens’ focal length.
TM, thank you for the info – the article has been updated.
p.s. The FT1 Mount Adapter is currently available in Europe.
TM, just FYI, I live in the US.
Yes, I know. Available at Mike’s Cameras, maybe?
http://www.mikescamera.com/spec_sheet.html?catalog%5Bname%5D=Nikon-FT1-Mount-Adapter–Lens-converters-%26-adapters&catalog%5Bproduct_guids%5D%5B0%5D=af452b10-0967-012f-8778-20cf30bab63e
Nope, called a local store and they don’t have it.
hi Nasim.. just want let you now that the review in this article really help me convince that J1/V1 is great camera and i am very impressed with its performance and get more impressed when i couple it with ft1 ..thanks nasim. i even shoot bicycle racing competition with my j1 ! btw, this is my street shoot using j1+ft1+70-200 vr2..
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2745593592188&set=a.2703628023075.137248.1027950831&type=3&theater
Just ordered a V1!
Check out these samples if you’re in doubt about what image quality you actually can get with this camera: http://www.openbloom.com/GEAR-Etc-1/Nikon-1-V1/19648888_Nn5D4F#1561501497_vH9t3nj
Good review Nasim
I have not read all the above comments so far, and may be someone already said it : One big advantage for me in favor to V1 Nikon vs other mirror less (Sony Nex-5N, Oly EP-3) is that its mechanical shutter sound is less loud and when put to electronic shutter mode + removed of artificial electronic shutter sound, V1 et FULLY SILENT … and, that4s great for street photography or indoor quiet places photography …
The Ricoh GXR with its last lensor 16Mp / and 24-84 mm should may be have a central leaf mechanical shutter to be as quiet as the V1′s mechanical shutter (We will see), like also the Fuji X100, but, NOT DEAF SILENT AS THE V1 in electronic shutter mode
Thank you for you review
Best regards
Jean-Philippe
… and, for street photography, responsiveness is also a major key … and, on this field, V1 is much faster than RICOH GXR and Fuji X100 … and, even though they are fast V1 is still faster than NEX-5N and OLY EP-3 _ EP3 is very fast tough …
Jean-Philippe
Thanks for the review, it was very informative and the best one I’ve read so far on the V1.
I recently purchased it because of the FT1 adapter. I’m happy to shoot with the V1 and its lenses but the FT1 adapter really is great if you’re interested in shooting birds/wildlife. The 2.7x crop is massive!
I’m sure you have a lot of great nikkor lenses for your D3s so I say the FT1 is definitely worth checking out. It might not be so great for landscapes as there’s nothing the small pancake lens can’t do on the wide end, but being able to use stuff like the 85 1.4g, or 300mm afs makes it a great combo for birding. I’m really like the V1 a lot already and have only had it for a few days. Right off the bat I used the 105mm 2.8 nikkor macro lens and it zoomed in so close to things I couldn’t do before on my D3 :)
How come all reviewers forget to say that the Nikon 1 system is the best fast AF-street photography tool that we have yet seen?
Extremely fast, extremely good image quality for its size and absolutely silent electronic shutter.
Daniel, I believe I did mention that the Nikon 1 V1 has an incredibly fast AF – it applies to all types of photography though, not just street photography :)
check out some bird photography done with J1.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mangkor/6764065629/
surprisingly, usable shot with high iso without too much of noise albeit no NR has been done. pls bear with the color cast because I’m unable to fix it due to my physical restriction (I’m color blind!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mangkor/6759622299/
and with iso 1600..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mangkor/6759852487/
Those are great samples, thank you for posting them Mangkor!
wildlife and bird photography is just my weekend hobby. due to financial restriction, of course not everybody can afford those hefty pro-body and expensive super telephoto lenses.
with nikon 1, there’s several advantages that everybody should take note especially for beginners.
first, impressive effective focal length reach. using 300mm f/4 budget lens, there is ample reach due to 2.7x crop factor of this little camera. by putting a TC-17EII teleconverter, a whopping EFL of 1350mm – more than enough for the reach.
and AF speed is faster even with TC. with my previous setup (d90 + 300mm f/4 + TC-17EII), focusing is very slow and lot of precious moment lost due to camera’s inability to focus in time.
secondly, sufficient DOF even wide open. last time when I was shooting birds with dslr, there’s always a need to stop down the aperture to get everything in focus – sometime stopping down up to f/11 doesn’t give me enough DOF to get the head to tail sharpness (the tail is still out of focus)
stopping down the aperture also means I’m loosing the shutter speed. 1 stops different can make a big difference for the motion blur where birds usually doesn’t want to stand still. hehe
the other thing is, I just can ignore the need of MLU and remote shutter that normally is a must to avoid mirror slap during slow shutter. since this a mirrorless camera, Nikon 1 give me advantage to shoot directly with the camera’s shutter button.
by having a lightweight setup of shorter telephoto lenses (and still getting enough reach), I can walk more into the wilderness. trust me, I tried carrying a 600mm nikkor into the forest and it was very tiring..
blazing fast burst rate and camera buffer is also good. to get a 10fps, someone need to fork out lot of money getting pro-body but this little Nikon 1 can give you more (60fps). don’t forget 400fps for slow-motion video..
just some of my thought. some people may think out of it..
way to go mangkor!
impressive shots mangkor!!
can see why crop factors can be useful! For me I am a nex 5n user, so am happy to have manually crop on later on the subject if required. Since there is 16Mp to play with, dropping to 10MP give a little bit of play
Hi Nasim,
I was wondering, is it possible to permanently turn off the back LCD while shooting and only use the EVF when taking a photo?
I guess so it can act like a DSLR does. (LCD is only used for menu and picture review).
Hi Nasim,
Can you tell us approximately when you are planning to post your Nex-5n review? I’m really looking forward to it – I am still trying to choose between a V1 or an Nex-5n, and I think your review will be a great resource for me.
I am especially interested to hear about the white balance, colors, and AF performance compared to the V1. The Nikon colors look fantastic and might be the selling point for me. Please feel free to give us a sneak preview of what you think about the Sony’s colors!
Skin tones, especially. Thanks for your great work!
Scott, I am very sorry for such a late response – the Sony NEX-5N review has been posted here a while ago: http://mansurovs.com/sony-nex-5n-review
Hi Nasim
I miss the box with the stars (from “build quality” to “mansurovs overall rating”). If that box would be STANDARD in all camera reviews, it will be much easier to make quick comparisons; for instance with Sony NEX-5N (wich had the good box in the overview chapter)
Max, the box is there now :) I am updating all old reviews with some new information and will be making them all look very similar in terms of layout and information.
Dear Nasim:
Amazing review.
Did you notice any limit in recording time? It seems many cameras have limited the video lenght to 29 minutes, to get under some tax on video cameras in Europe.
Supposedly the Canon EOS1 and the Lumix GH1 do not have this limitation when bought in the USA. I was wondering of Nikon is also allowing over 29 minute videos with this lovely new camera?
Thanks – Pat
In your review you mentioned that the Nikon1 V1 has a built-in intervalometer
Where is the intervalometer in the Nikon 1 V1, and how do I get to it? I can’t find it in the menu of my Nikon1 V1.